(AKC Terrier Group)
The
Cesky Terrier is a well-muscled, short legged and well-pigmented
hunting terrier that was developed to be worked in packs. The breed
originated in the Czech Republic and is considered one of the country’s
national breeds. As such, it has been featured on postage stamps, on
television, in books and even in a movie. The Cesky has natural drop
ears, a natural tail, and sports a soft, long, silky coat in shades of
gray from charcoal to platinum.
General Appearance
The Cesky Terrier was developed to be a well-muscled, short legged and well-pigmented hunting terrier that could be worked in packs. The Cesky Terrier has natural drop ears and a natural tail. The Cesky is longer than it is tall and has a topline that rises slightly higher over the loin and rump. It sports a soft, long, silky coat in shades of gray from Charcoal to Platinum. The correct coat is clipped to emphasize a slim impression. The hallmarks of the breed should be unique unto itself with a lean body and graceful movement. They are reserved towards strangers, loyal to their owners, but ever keen and alert during the hunt.
Size, Proportion Substance
Ideal Measurements
Height – Height at withers 10 - 13 inches.
Weight – Weight is ideally between 16 and 22 pounds, bitches slightly less, (suggested to be no less than 14 pounds and no more than 24 pounds) however, no Cesky in good condition and otherwise well balanced shall be penalized for being only slightly outside the suggested weight.
Length – The length of body, measured from sternum to buttocks ideally between 15 and 17 inches. To be in a ratio of approximately 1 1/2 (Length) to 1 (Height). The overall balance is more important than any single specification.
Girth of thorax (behind elbows) – The girth of the body measured at the thorax, behind the elbows ideally is 17 to 18 inches.
Head
Head – Head is about 7 to 8 inches long, 3 to 4 inches wide and is shaped like a long, blunt wedge. The plane of the forehead forms a slight but definite stop with the bridge of the nose. The breadth between the ears is slightly larger for a dog than a bitch. The head should join the neck smoothly.
Eyes - Almond shaped of medium size. Slightly deep set with a friendly expression. The color is brown or dark brown.
Ears - Medium size, dropping in such a way to well cover the orifice. Ears are set rather high with forward edge lying close to the cheek. Shaped like a triangle, with the shorter side of the triangle at the fold of the ear.
Skull – Skull is shaped like a blunt wedge with the broadest part between the ears which tapers moderately towards the supraorbital ridges. Occipital protuberance easy to palpate, cheek bones moderately prominent. Frontal furrow only slightly marked. A shallow indentation running down the brows, and joining the muzzle with a moderate stop.
Muzzle - Nasal Bridge straight. Narrow foreface undesirable.
Stop – Not accentuated but apparent.
Nose – Dark and well developed. The color is black.
Teeth – Set square in a strong jaw, sound and regular, and of good size. Either scissor or level bite is expectable. Complete dentition preferred.
Neck, Topline and Body
Neck – Well muscled and strong. Medium-long, carried in a slight arch. Set firmly on the shoulders.
Topline – Not straight but with a slight rise over the loin and rump.
Body – Fully muscled, longer than high. Withers not very pronounced with the neck set rather high. Rump is strongly developed, muscular; pelvis moderately slanting with the hip bones often slightly higher than the withers.
Belly – Ample and slightly tucked up. Flanks well fitted.
Chest – More cylindrical than deep.
Ribs – Well sprung.
Loins – Relatively long, muscular, broad and slightly rounded.
Tail – The ideal length is 7 to 8 inches. Set following the line of the rump. Tail may be carried downward or with a slight bend at tip; or carried saber shaped horizontally or higher. All of these tail carriages are considered correct with none having preference over the other. Curled squirrel tail penalized.
Forequarters
Shoulder – Muscular, well laid back and powerful.
Elbows – Should fit closely to the sides and be neither loose or tight.
Forelegs – Short, straight, well boned and parallel. Dewclaws may be present.
Forefeet – Large, well-arched toes with strong nails and well-developed pads.
Hindquarters
Hindlegs – Strong, well-muscled and longer than the forelegs.
Thigh - Longer in proportion to the lower leg with stifle well bent.
Hock Joint - Strong and well developed. Well let down and parallel to each other. Lower leg is straight from hock to heel.
Hindfeet – As front but smaller.
Coat
Long, fine but slight texture. Furnishings slightly wavy with a silky gloss. Shorter hair can have more curl. Not overdone with too much furnishings.
Clipping for presentation:
Head and neck
On the foreface, the hair is not to be trimmed except for cleaning up long hair to form a beard and eyebrows. The eyebrows should angle from the outside corner of the eye and work into the fall that is left long between the eyes. The beard is trimmed at an angle from the underside of the eye to the corner of the mouth and around the lower jaw. The hair on the cheeks and underside of the neck is clipped quite short, ¼ inch long. The hair on the upper side of the neck is trimmed to about ½ to 1 inch long.
Chest and Forequarters
The short hair on the underside of the neck is continued down the chest. Long furnishings begin at the level of where the front leg couples with the body and continue across the front of the dog in a straight line that is not blended into the short hair of the upper chest and neck. The short hair is continued over the shoulder muscles and stops where the body ties into the forequarters of the dog. The top lateral portion of the front leg is also clipped short in a U shape as to show off the powerful muscle of the upper leg. The rest of the hair on the front leg is grown out in long furnishings that stop at ground level.
Body
The hair on the body is clipped to ½ to 1 inch to form a saddle starting at the withers and ending in a V shape on the tail. The longer hair on the back is blended into shorter ¼ to ½ inch hair which covers the sides of the dog. Long furnishings start at the level of the elbow and continue across the lower portion of the ribcage to the tuck-up.
Hindquarters
The hair covering the heavy muscling of the thigh from the point of the hipbone to the top of the hock is clipped short, ¼ inch. Long furnishings start at the tuck-up run down the front of the hind leg and across to the hock. The furnishings continue down from the hock to ground level. The hair covering the vent and tail is clipped short 1/8 to 1/4 inch except for a V shape of longer hair from the back saddle worked into the very top part of the tail where it meets the body.
Overall Appearance
The
transition between clipped and unclipped areas should be pleasing to
the eye and never abrupt. The final haircut should show off the strong,
muscled Cesky Terrier.
Color
All puppies are born black, or black and tan.
In mature dogs, 3 years or older, the correct color is any shade of gray from charcoal to platinum gray. Black may appear on the head, ears, feet and tail. White, brown and yellow markings are permitted on the head, beard, cheeks, neck, chest, limbs and around the vent. A white collar or white tip is permitted on the tail. The base color must always be predominant.
Gait
The action should be free and even, with good reach in both the front and back, covering the ground effortlessly. This is a working terrier, which must have agility, freedom of movement and endurance to work.
Approved: October 18, 2010
Effective: June 30, 2011
This breed occasionally suffers from the Scotty Cramp, a minor problem causing awkward movement, but that is not painful or life threatening.
Balanced,
non-aggressive. Not to be sparred in the show ring. Can be reserved
toward strangers. A pleasant dog that is not as excitable as other
terrier breeds but always ready to give chase to something of interest.
When working they can be silent but right on target and also able to
work underground in burrows and scent track game. Cesky Terriers are
reputed to be less active and quieter than other terriers. This may or
may not make them suitable pets for families with children.
The Cesky Terrier Dog is AKC’s 172nd breed.
The Cesky Terrier Dog has been assigned the Terrier Group designation.
The Cesky Terrier has been recorded in the Foundation Stock Service since 1996.
The Cesky Terrier was developed by Mr. Frantisek Horak, a Czechoslovakian geneticist.
The breed is sometimes called the Czech Terrier, Czesky Terrier or Bohemian Terrier.
In its country of origin, the Cesky Terrier has been portrayed on postage stamps.
The name is pronounced ches-kee.
Cesky Terriers were first imported to the United States in the late 1980's.
Geneticist Frantisek Horak crossed the Scottish Terrier with the Sealyham Terrier to create the Cesky Terrier.
At the October 2010 Board Meeting the American
Cesky Terrier Fanciers Association is the official parent club for the
Cesky Terrier and to accept the Cesky Terrier into the AKC Stud Book on
June 1, 2011. The breed will be eligible to compete in the Terrier Group
beginning June 30, 2011. There will be an open registry for the breed
until July 1, 2015.
At the October 2007 Board Meeting t he American
Cesky Terrier Fanciers Association will serve as the AKC Parent Club to
represent the Cesky Terrier and will be eligible to compete in the
Miscellaneous Class, effective July 1, 2008.
In December 2003 the AKC Board approved the
eligibility of some Foundation Stock breeds, which meet certain
criteria, for competition in AKC Companion Events (Obedience, Tracking,
and Agility), effective January 1, 2004. The breeds must have a minimum
of 150 dogs with three generation pedigrees recorded in the FSS®, a
national breed club with members in at least 20 states, and an AKC
approved breed standard. The breeds that currently meet the criteria are
the Irish Red and White Setter, the Cesky Terrier, the Coton de
Tulear, the Norwegian Lundehund, the FSS® Black and Tan Coonhound, the
Bluetick Coonhound, the American English Coonhound, the Treeing Walker
Coonhound, the Peruvian Inca Orchid, the Sloughi, the Dogue de Bordeaux,
the Tibetan Mastiff, the Perro de Presa Canario, the Chinook, the
Norwegian Buhund, the Swedish Vallhund, the Finnish Lapphund, and the
Pyrenean Shepherd. Requests by breed clubs to have their breeds compete
in the various Performance Events would be considered on a case-by-case
basis.
At the November 2003 Board Meeting the Cesky
Terrier was approved for competition in AKC Earthdog Tests, effective
January 1, 2004.
The
Cesky Terrier development was started in 1949, and the piebald dog was
started in 1954. The Cesky Terrier was recognized by the FCI in 1963,
but the Piebald dog is not an FCI breed. Breeds that were developed in
the Czech Republic or Slovakia are considered National Breeds. Since the
Cesky Terrier has been the most successful of the national breeds, it
has been featured on postage stamps, on television, in books and even in
a movie.
Although there was a ban on exporting the breed for a number of years, it still managed to become quite popular in the Scandinavian countries. Now the breed is in most of the European countries as well as England, the United States, Canada, and now Australia.
Mr. Horak named his kennel "LOVU ZDAR" which means "Successful Hunter" or "Successful Hunting", which was appropriate for his Scotties, later the Sealyham, and finally the Cesky Terrier. He never forgot his idea of combining the Scotty and Sealy, but the war interrupted his plans to try this combination.
Finally, in 1949, Mr. Horak did a breeding with a Scotty bitch and a Sealyham dog. One pup survived, and as the pup grew up, he started to hunt him. He also reported his breeding of this new breed to the local Terrier Club at that time. Although a brown color is allowed, only a few have been born since the beginning of the breed.
Unfortunately, this first Cesky Terrier was shot by a careless hunter in 195O. Mr. Horak repeated his breedinq with a Scotty bitch named Scotch Rose and a Sealyham dog named Buganier Urguelle. This litter produced 6 pups and the Cesky Terrier breed had begun. Mr. Horak kept excellent records of all his breedings and started a private registry of the Cesky Terrier.
Since the genetic pool of the Cesky Terrier was so limited, Mr. Horak decided to introduce some new blood into the breed. A Sealyham was bred into the Cesky Terrier breed in 1984 and 1985, with the permission of the FCI.
The reasons Mr. Horak developed the Cesky Terrier
Mr. Horak felt that a combination of the Scottish Terrier and the Sealyham Terrier would make the ideal hunting dog. The darker color of the Scotty and the drop ear of the Sealy were two of the considerations.
He felt that the two breeds had become too big for hunting in the burrow due to their large chest size. He bred for a narrower chest and a moderately sized head, longer legs than the original breeds, a softer coat, and a temperament that was aggressive in the hunt, but easily handled.
The Cesky Terrier is used in hunting fox, rabbits, ducks, pheasants, and even wild boar. There is a club of Cesky Terrier owners in the Czech Republic that is just for people who hunt with their Cesky Terriers.
From the beginning, Mr. Horak decided not to burden the Cesky Terrier with tail docking or the stripping of the coat done in the Scotty and Sealy. He decided that the Cesky Terrier would be clippered (shaved) and the tail would be left undocked. This has made the breed easier to groom as a pet or as a show dog.
The
Cesky Terrier is a well-muscled, short legged and well-pigmented
hunting terrier that was developed to be worked in packs. The breed
originated in the Czech Republic and is considered one of the country’s
national breeds. As such, it has been featured on postage stamps, on
television, in books and even in a movie. The Cesky has natural drop
ears, a natural tail, and sports a soft, long, silky coat in shades of
gray from charcoal to platinum.
Cesky Terrier AKC Breed Standards
The Cesky Terrier was developed to be a well-muscled, short legged and well-pigmented hunting terrier that could be worked in packs. The Cesky Terrier has natural drop ears and a natural tail. The Cesky is longer than it is tall and has a topline that rises slightly higher over the loin and rump. It sports a soft, long, silky coat in shades of gray from Charcoal to Platinum. The correct coat is clipped to emphasize a slim impression. The hallmarks of the breed should be unique unto itself with a lean body and graceful movement. They are reserved towards strangers, loyal to their owners, but ever keen and alert during the hunt.
Ideal Measurements
Height – Height at withers 10 - 13 inches.
Weight – Weight is ideally between 16 and 22 pounds, bitches slightly less, (suggested to be no less than 14 pounds and no more than 24 pounds) however, no Cesky in good condition and otherwise well balanced shall be penalized for being only slightly outside the suggested weight.
Length – The length of body, measured from sternum to buttocks ideally between 15 and 17 inches. To be in a ratio of approximately 1 1/2 (Length) to 1 (Height). The overall balance is more important than any single specification.
Girth of thorax (behind elbows) – The girth of the body measured at the thorax, behind the elbows ideally is 17 to 18 inches.
Head
Head – Head is about 7 to 8 inches long, 3 to 4 inches wide and is shaped like a long, blunt wedge. The plane of the forehead forms a slight but definite stop with the bridge of the nose. The breadth between the ears is slightly larger for a dog than a bitch. The head should join the neck smoothly.
Eyes - Almond shaped of medium size. Slightly deep set with a friendly expression. The color is brown or dark brown.
Ears - Medium size, dropping in such a way to well cover the orifice. Ears are set rather high with forward edge lying close to the cheek. Shaped like a triangle, with the shorter side of the triangle at the fold of the ear.
Skull – Skull is shaped like a blunt wedge with the broadest part between the ears which tapers moderately towards the supraorbital ridges. Occipital protuberance easy to palpate, cheek bones moderately prominent. Frontal furrow only slightly marked. A shallow indentation running down the brows, and joining the muzzle with a moderate stop.
Muzzle - Nasal Bridge straight. Narrow foreface undesirable.
Stop – Not accentuated but apparent.
Nose – Dark and well developed. The color is black.
Teeth – Set square in a strong jaw, sound and regular, and of good size. Either scissor or level bite is expectable. Complete dentition preferred.
Neck, Topline and Body
Neck – Well muscled and strong. Medium-long, carried in a slight arch. Set firmly on the shoulders.
Topline – Not straight but with a slight rise over the loin and rump.
Body – Fully muscled, longer than high. Withers not very pronounced with the neck set rather high. Rump is strongly developed, muscular; pelvis moderately slanting with the hip bones often slightly higher than the withers.
Belly – Ample and slightly tucked up. Flanks well fitted.
Chest – More cylindrical than deep.
Ribs – Well sprung.
Loins – Relatively long, muscular, broad and slightly rounded.
Tail – The ideal length is 7 to 8 inches. Set following the line of the rump. Tail may be carried downward or with a slight bend at tip; or carried saber shaped horizontally or higher. All of these tail carriages are considered correct with none having preference over the other. Curled squirrel tail penalized.
Forequarters
Shoulder – Muscular, well laid back and powerful.
Elbows – Should fit closely to the sides and be neither loose or tight.
Forelegs – Short, straight, well boned and parallel. Dewclaws may be present.
Forefeet – Large, well-arched toes with strong nails and well-developed pads.
Hindquarters
Hindlegs – Strong, well-muscled and longer than the forelegs.
Thigh - Longer in proportion to the lower leg with stifle well bent.
Hock Joint - Strong and well developed. Well let down and parallel to each other. Lower leg is straight from hock to heel.
Hindfeet – As front but smaller.
Coat
Long, fine but slight texture. Furnishings slightly wavy with a silky gloss. Shorter hair can have more curl. Not overdone with too much furnishings.
Clipping for presentation:
Head and neck
On the foreface, the hair is not to be trimmed except for cleaning up long hair to form a beard and eyebrows. The eyebrows should angle from the outside corner of the eye and work into the fall that is left long between the eyes. The beard is trimmed at an angle from the underside of the eye to the corner of the mouth and around the lower jaw. The hair on the cheeks and underside of the neck is clipped quite short, ¼ inch long. The hair on the upper side of the neck is trimmed to about ½ to 1 inch long.
Chest and Forequarters
The short hair on the underside of the neck is continued down the chest. Long furnishings begin at the level of where the front leg couples with the body and continue across the front of the dog in a straight line that is not blended into the short hair of the upper chest and neck. The short hair is continued over the shoulder muscles and stops where the body ties into the forequarters of the dog. The top lateral portion of the front leg is also clipped short in a U shape as to show off the powerful muscle of the upper leg. The rest of the hair on the front leg is grown out in long furnishings that stop at ground level.
Body
The hair on the body is clipped to ½ to 1 inch to form a saddle starting at the withers and ending in a V shape on the tail. The longer hair on the back is blended into shorter ¼ to ½ inch hair which covers the sides of the dog. Long furnishings start at the level of the elbow and continue across the lower portion of the ribcage to the tuck-up.
Hindquarters
The hair covering the heavy muscling of the thigh from the point of the hipbone to the top of the hock is clipped short, ¼ inch. Long furnishings start at the tuck-up run down the front of the hind leg and across to the hock. The furnishings continue down from the hock to ground level. The hair covering the vent and tail is clipped short 1/8 to 1/4 inch except for a V shape of longer hair from the back saddle worked into the very top part of the tail where it meets the body.
Overall Appearance
Color
All puppies are born black, or black and tan.
In mature dogs, 3 years or older, the correct color is any shade of gray from charcoal to platinum gray. Black may appear on the head, ears, feet and tail. White, brown and yellow markings are permitted on the head, beard, cheeks, neck, chest, limbs and around the vent. A white collar or white tip is permitted on the tail. The base color must always be predominant.
Gait
The action should be free and even, with good reach in both the front and back, covering the ground effortlessly. This is a working terrier, which must have agility, freedom of movement and endurance to work.
Approved: October 18, 2010
Effective: June 30, 2011
Cesky Terrier Health Issues
This breed occasionally suffers from the Scotty Cramp, a minor problem causing awkward movement, but that is not painful or life threatening.
Cesky Terrier Temperament
Did You Know?
Cesky Terrier History
Although there was a ban on exporting the breed for a number of years, it still managed to become quite popular in the Scandinavian countries. Now the breed is in most of the European countries as well as England, the United States, Canada, and now Australia.
Mr. Horak named his kennel "LOVU ZDAR" which means "Successful Hunter" or "Successful Hunting", which was appropriate for his Scotties, later the Sealyham, and finally the Cesky Terrier. He never forgot his idea of combining the Scotty and Sealy, but the war interrupted his plans to try this combination.
Finally, in 1949, Mr. Horak did a breeding with a Scotty bitch and a Sealyham dog. One pup survived, and as the pup grew up, he started to hunt him. He also reported his breeding of this new breed to the local Terrier Club at that time. Although a brown color is allowed, only a few have been born since the beginning of the breed.
Unfortunately, this first Cesky Terrier was shot by a careless hunter in 195O. Mr. Horak repeated his breedinq with a Scotty bitch named Scotch Rose and a Sealyham dog named Buganier Urguelle. This litter produced 6 pups and the Cesky Terrier breed had begun. Mr. Horak kept excellent records of all his breedings and started a private registry of the Cesky Terrier.
Since the genetic pool of the Cesky Terrier was so limited, Mr. Horak decided to introduce some new blood into the breed. A Sealyham was bred into the Cesky Terrier breed in 1984 and 1985, with the permission of the FCI.
The reasons Mr. Horak developed the Cesky Terrier
Mr. Horak felt that a combination of the Scottish Terrier and the Sealyham Terrier would make the ideal hunting dog. The darker color of the Scotty and the drop ear of the Sealy were two of the considerations.
He felt that the two breeds had become too big for hunting in the burrow due to their large chest size. He bred for a narrower chest and a moderately sized head, longer legs than the original breeds, a softer coat, and a temperament that was aggressive in the hunt, but easily handled.
The Cesky Terrier is used in hunting fox, rabbits, ducks, pheasants, and even wild boar. There is a club of Cesky Terrier owners in the Czech Republic that is just for people who hunt with their Cesky Terriers.
From the beginning, Mr. Horak decided not to burden the Cesky Terrier with tail docking or the stripping of the coat done in the Scotty and Sealy. He decided that the Cesky Terrier would be clippered (shaved) and the tail would be left undocked. This has made the breed easier to groom as a pet or as a show dog.
Cesky Terrier Pics
AKC Registered Breeders
Cesky Terrier
Parent Club: American Cesky Terrier Fanciers Association
Breeder Referral: Barbara Hopler, 9 Woodside Drive, Rockaway, NJ 07866; 973-586-3033; sambarbs@aol.com
Parent Club: American Cesky Terrier Fanciers Association
Breeder Referral: Barbara Hopler, 9 Woodside Drive, Rockaway, NJ 07866; 973-586-3033; sambarbs@aol.com
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